Cairngorms: West of the Lairig Ghru

Sgor Gaoith, Braeriach and Cairntoul

The heatwave was well into its second week apart from the western highlands which were to be hit by rain over the next few days. John called and suggested a two-day trip to climb some of the corbetts in the northeast of Scotland where the forecast was for the good weather to be retained. I suggested an alternative walk over the Western Cairngorm plateau, camping overnight and collecting the 8 munros to the west of the Lairig Ghru. It would be a chance to camp high and enjoy the remote tundra-like landscape on the tops. We agreed that the corbetts could wait for later in the year.

Monday, 15 July 2013

Ascent:        1425 metres

Distance:     22 kilometres

Time:          6 hours 26 mins

t   Carn Ban Mor             1052m      1hr   36mins

m  Sgor Gaoith                1118m      2hrs  7mins

Camp - Tom Dubh            870m      3hrs 37mins

m  Monadh Mor               1113m     4hrs 13mins

m  Beinn Bhrotain            1157m     4hrs 58mins

Feshie plateau towards Sgorr Gaoith and Braeriach

Braeriach from Sgor Gaoith

Camp by Allt Luineag below Monadh Mor

The Devil's Point in the sun, Ben Macdui in the cloud

Beinn Bhrotain from Monadh Mor

Some colour to temper the intimidating bogs below Monadh Mor

The journey up the A9 had been long and frustrating with slow trains of caravans and lorries as well as several sections of roadworks. We arrived at the relatively new car park in Glen Feshie which is a kilometre short of Achlean. As always packing for a two-day trip took some time and we filled up on food before setting out in a heat of 25ºC. The path up the Allt Fhearmagan from Achlean is well made and the first 100 metres of climbing are through the native forest before emerging into the searing heat of the open hillside. As well as food for two days and overnight camp stuff  I was carrying a bladder with 3 litres of water to test my new rucksack. Our pace was steady with no stops until we reached the top of Carn Ban Mor.

From here the long plateau from Braeriach to Cairntoul beckoned and was still cloud-free. We walked into the stiff breeze to the summit of Sgor Gaoith with its rocky upturned summit. We arrived just after 3pm, took photos and enjoyed ten minutes absorbing the splendid views of Loch Einich below the cliffs and then started heading round the southern end of the Loch, dropping to the undulating boggy ground.  It was slow going and I calculated that we had another 5 hours to get over the four munros from Braeriach to The Devil's Point and back to a suitable burn before we could make camp. Moreover, clouds had gathered on the summits which would further slow progress. I suggested setting camp below Monadh Mor instead and then climbing Monadh Mor and Beinn Bhrotain. They were both out of cloud and we could set out early in the morning to climb the other four before returning to Glen Feshie via Mullach Clach a' Bhlair.

We decided that this was a more sensible option and so it proved. We found a perfect campsite next to the Allt Luineag just below the lump of Tom Dubh which is classified as a top. After a brew and putting up the tent, we set out in the early evening sunshine to climb the rock-strewn slopes of Monadh Mor. We were rewarded with great views of the eastern Cairngorms. Ben Macdui was in cloud but the sunlight illuminated The Devil's Peak and the bulk of Beinn Bhrotain ahead. There are two cairns on the hill and a pleasant ridge walk across the mountain before a brief but steep descent. The winds had whipped up as we crossed the bealach and climbed up the steep blocky granite slopes to Beinn Bhrotain. There are a lot of cairns built at the summit as well as one of the ugly cylindrical trig points. 

We returned by much the same route but took in the other top on Monadh Mor and descended via a burn to the camp. Ptarmigan were very evident throughout this part of the walk with young birds still being protected by their parents, the mothers giving us several demonstrations of their broken wing sketch to divert us away from their young. We were in the unusual position of being back at the tent and eating by 8:30pm. The fresh breeze kept the midges at bay and we sat and watched the sun retire into the clouds over over Braeriach. John took to his bivvy and overnight we had some rain.

The Aonach Eagach ridge

Aonach Eagach from A82

The Lost Valley below Bidean  nam Bian

Below Am Bodach

Descent by the Chancellor

Descending the crazy pinnacles

Looking back from Stob Coire Liath

Sgorr nam Fionnaidh from Stob Coire Liath

Glencoe with Buchaille Etive Mhor prominent from Sgorr nam Fionnaidh

Wednesday 10 July 2013

Ascent:        1115 metres
Distance:     10 kilometres
Time:           5 hours 22minutes

t     Am Bodach                943m       1hr   42mins
m   Meall Dearg               953m        2hrs 30mins
t     Stob Coire Leith         940m        3hrs 47mins
m   Sgor nam Fionnaidh   967m        4hrs 15mins

I had been saving the Aonach Eagach for a good day, the ridge deserves to be savoured. Previous excursions had included an afternoon trip in February when it was covered in ice and snow and went dark as we descended the Clachaig gulley and a cold November day when the ridge was lost in the cloud. I had also skipped down it in late May on the way back from a wonderful week when we had climbed all 23 Munros in Knoydart and Skye. I had walked it in late April and guided a couple of awestruck teenagers along it on a perfect June day. Today was a repeat of the latter but my then thirteen-year-old was now forcing the pace.

We parked in the large car park at the top of the glen. An elderly lady from a tourist bus warned us that it was far too steep and we should not go into the cloud that was still concealing the ridge. She then made me promise to look after the two younger members of the group - both around thirty - because their mothers would never forgive me if I didn't. I thought of telling her that two of us had bus passes and that the younger ones should be looking after us but she was not someone to argue with.

Gregor drove the car to the lower lay-by to save time at the end of the walk whilst John, Ross and I began climbing the steep but well-made path which zigzags up from Allt na Reigh. The views across to Bidean were outstanding as the sun was burning off the morning clouds in the week of a heatwave following Andy Murray's win at Wimbledon. Gregor ran back up the glen and had caught us by the time we reached 500 metres. We stopped for a drink and spent ten minutes enjoying the sunshine, views and banter. The path to the top of Am Bodach is unrelenting but gives a relatively quick ascent and overlooks the A82 which was awash with summer traffic.

We stopped for some food and drink on Am Bodach, enjoying the slight breeze that made the sun bearable before we started the first tricky leg over to Meall Dearg. The descent is steep and exposed in places but nowhere is it more than a scramble and the route is scored by thousands of crampon scratches. We arrived at the summit of Meall Dearg just behind two other couples and took our time before setting out on the next section over the crazy pinnacles. As always the trick was to keep to the ridgeline although this gives a couple of exposed sections. It is both easier and more exciting than taking the lower sections to the north of the ridge, which I had followed last time on a raw November day when the ridge was in the cloud. It is comparatively slow progress with a dozen or so pinnacles to ascend and descend and clamber across before the final 100 metres of the climb to the airy top of Stob  Coire Liath. Beyond here it is all plain sailing apart from finding a way down to the road.

We took photos and finished all food and drink before the final easy promenade over to Sgor nam Fionnaidh. Our only thought was getting down for some water, we had exhausted our supplies in the unusual summer heat. We returned to the col and found a direct descent down the loose scree, battling our way across several gullies and then the deep bracken to reach the road. All the burns had dried up in the heatwave so we were completely dehydrated. It was 4:30pm by the time we reached the layby on the road where Gregor had parked the car. Then the really dangerous part of the day began with the usual idiotic overtaking manoeuvres by motorbikes, van drivers and company cars as the traffic crossed Rannoch Moor. The caravans, motorhomes, and cyclists are given short shrift as they are engulfed by the rampaging wildebeest of the A82. It was half an hour later before we reached the Green Welly shop in Tyndrum for some cold drinks.

Catbells: Tova's first hill

Friday brought an old fashioned summer's day and after three days of swimming and a visit to the Beatrix Potter house at Near Sawrey, we thought it about time that Tova climbed a hill. She would be 3 months old in two days. We drove to Keswick and then on to Portinscale and the Swinside Lodge where we found an empty parking spot. Tova was strapped to my front and off we went up the steep but well-trodden path up Catbells. Twenty-nine years ago Catbells had been where our three children were first hilled and it seemed appropriate to continue the tradition. I was carrying Tova and Eva was carrying the camera, so for once, I was caught on film.

A cairn stone for Tova

Derwentwater

I don't want to go down

Little Town in Newlands and bliss for Tova

Little Town farm

Tova and a Wainwright's beer, bliss for Papa

Little town farm - looking for Lucie

Skelgill path

Skiddaw and a methane line

Sleepwalking

The walk was an unmitigated success, the sun shone, the setting was spectacular, we found a suitable nursing bay below the summit and Tova was serene and showing interest all the way. At the summit I was asked did we have to go down the same way. I suggested that we dropped down into Newlands and visit the cafe in the farm where Lucie lived in The Tale of Mrs Tiggy Winkle. I had passed it a couple of days earlier and been told that it was good for afternoon teas. The route down Yewthwaite gill was gentler than the ascent and Eva did the carrying. We were down in the bucolic splendour of Newlands in 45 minutes and the little town farm tea room was a real find. Homemade sandwiches, cakes, ice cream and some decent beer were all available as well as some homemade soft drinks. It was early afternoon and we happily whiled away an hour in the cool dining room.

The walk back to the car at Skelgill was another perfect walk through the exquisite Newlands landscape. We even saw a Black Redstart which flitted along the hedgerows. Tova fell asleep as any 3 months would after such a long walk. Catbells had lived up to all our previous impressions and watching Tova had cured us of the stoicism of ageing.

Lucie at Little-town farm

Newlands Horseshoe

Catbells on the ascent

Catbells and Derwentwater from Maiden Moor

Vale of Newlands from Maiden Moor

High Spy and Great Gable

Newlands from Dale Head

Fleetwith Pike and the Buttermere Fells

Robinson summit

Descent from Robinson

Hindscarh and Robinson from Newlands

Newlands Church and former school

Hindscarth and Robinson

Newlands

Ascent:     1250 metres
Distance:   17 kilometres
Time:         4 hours  53mins
w   Catbells              451m            32mins
w   Maiden Moor     576m      1hr    7mins
w   High Spy           653m       1hr  36mins
w   Dale Head         753m       2hrs 22mins
w   Hindscarth         727m       2hrs 44mins
w   Robinson           737m       3hrs 18mins

Despite the fact that the vale of Newlands in the Lake District is one of my favourite places, I had never walked the complete skyline of the Newlands Horseshoe before. There had been dozens of trips up Catbells carrying or towing children and a few excursions up Dale Head, Hindscarth and Robinson from Buttermere. Gregor still had four of the hills to complete as part of his Wainwright round so it was an obvious outing.

It was grey as we set out but with the prospect of some sun later. Within minutes of leaving Skelgill at the foot of Catbells, the rain started and was on and off for the first hour. The lower part of the path had been improved and was a superb feature, almost park-like with the slate gravel path perfectly laid in the short grass which was trimmed by sheep We passed about 25 walkers on the ascent of Catbells, it seemed to go on longer than I remembered. There were the usual crowds at the summit, mainly teenagers on school trips but with a smattering of families with young children and older couples with dogs and walking poles.

We didn't stop at the summit but dropped down before the less frequented climb to Maiden Moor. The summit is off to the right from the main path that continues to High Spy. It is worth the diversion for the views into the Vale of Newlands although there was no sunlight lighting up this corner of paradise. As it was still raining we continued on the easy saunter across the ridge on a well-defined path to High Spy. We passed a couple of large groups of walkers coming up from Grange in Borrowdale, all heavily booted and wearing waterproofs and walking poles.

It is a longish descent to the lovely setting of Dale Head Tarn. From here there is a staircase most of the way up to Dale Head. The weather was improving and on the descent the views over the Buttermere fells opened up with the austere screes of Fleetwith Pike draping the Honistor pass. It is an enticing and open landscape across to Hindscarth. We stopped at the summit to eat and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.

The sun was shining and as we set off to retrace our steps we found a path cutting down to the col below Robinson. On the climb, we met a group of girls who wanted to know where they were and how to get to Grange. We showed them the map and told them they could get an app. On Robinson we met an older lady eating her lunch with her sheepdog. We took a photo of the dog and she said she had never seen it pose before. We said we would send the photo but she replied that we would have a job as she did not have a computer. She had been a maths teacher and had to teach IT later in her career. She considered computers to be an unnecessary intrusion as she already spent much time playing games.

From Robinson, we descended down some grassy slopes, leading to a fine rocky ridge and then into the valley to walk down to Low Snab and then to Newlands. At Little Town we passed the farm where Lucy lived in the Beatrix Potter tale of Mrs Tiggywinkle. It is a pleasant trek from here across fields full of lambs and cattle before reaching Skelgill. As I opened a gate I was hollered by two immaculately dressed ladies to keep the gate open for them. We had a conversation about Newlands, it was their favourite place as well. They were sisters and had been born and brought up in the Wigton but now lived in the Welsh Border country, one owned a bookshop in Hay on Wye. They had just walked around the Newlands valley and informed me that excellent afternoon teas were available at Little Town. I was unsure whether this was an invitation or not as by this time we seemed to be firm friends united by our love of Newlands. I excused us as I was unsure that Gregor would have enjoyed the company and we returned to the car park at Skelgill where a distraught motorist was waiting for an empty parking space.

Four days later the conditions were perfect and we returned to Catbells to kickstart Tova's hill list.

On Catbells: Tova's first hill at 3 months with Eva,