Sunday 30 October 2016

Mrs May's Mistakes

Theresa May had an easy route to becoming Prime Minister, easily beating the toxic threesome of Brexiteers: Liam Fox, Andrea Leadsom and Michael Gove, to win the nomination from Tory MPs without requiring the final vote from party members. She has continued to receive a largely favourable press, gained partly by having been a lukewarm remain supporter whilst now sounding like an enthusiastic Brexit campaigner, whatever that means.

Her utterances on gaining office were both surprising and promising following the elitist austerity policies of Cameron and Osborne.

Theresa May speaking after becoming Prime Minister
"The Government I lead will be driven not by the interests of the privileged few but by you.
We won't entrench advantages of the fortunate few. We will do everything to help you go as far as our talents can take you. We must fight the burning injustices. We must make Britain a country that works for everyone. We believe in a union not just between the nations of the UK but between all of our citizens - every one of us."


However, the promise of an era of egalitarian decision-making is now beginning to look threadbare. Her decision to appoint three ministers, David Davis, Liam Fox, and Boris Johnson to take collective charge of Brexit is seriously flawed. All of them have egos that trump their abilities and they seem unwilling or incapable of acting in concert. Brexit would be hard to do even without it being a hard Brexit.

She then installed or retained some of the least respected MPs as senior ministers. Jeremy Hunt and Andrea Leadsom have reputations that were already shredded before taking up, or in the case of Hunt retaining, key cabinet posts. Just watch the conspicuous disdain from their own backbenches when they speak in parliament.

She has managed to lose any goodwill from the three devolved governments in Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales, who seem increasingly frustrated by the lack of any genuine consultation about their involvement in negotiations over Brexit.

Then she gave the go-ahead to three mega infrastructure projects: Hinkley Point, HS2 and Heathrow that defy economic, environmental and social evidence or sense. This was tersely summed up by Simon Jenkins in an article that questioned the capability of Mrs May's government to make rational decisions.

Meanwhile, in the real world, the PM has declared that the future of Education requires the rebirth of grammar schools as well as the continued growth of academies, the NHS continues to miss targets with Jeremy Hunt showing every sign of this being a softening up for more privatisation, and there is no sign of any attempt to increase the stock of social housing, although I did see an article that the government are contemplating the return of prefabs.

The majority of the right-wing press are in denial about any damage being incurred by the Brexit vote. This despite Mrs May being allowed to only attend the most recent EU leaders meeting after midnight to give a 5-minute speech, which was then ridiculed by some of her colleague national political leaders.

The £ has dropped to a 31-year low against other currencies, falling 22% from the day before the referendum. The government's refrain is that it will make it easier for the UK to export its goods and services, although so far the trade balance deficit has increased. The government and the press also claim that inflation hasn't increased significantly so far. It soon will. Inelastic items of expenditure like petrol, Marmite and Apple computers have all gone up by between 12% and 20% in recent days.

The Resolution Foundation chaired by ex-Tory Minister, David Willetts, has warned of the dire consequences of the deterioration of public finances since the referendum. This will impact those on the lowest incomes. The minimum wage will be reduced, benefits are already being cut and inflation is set to soar in the new year when the full impact of the falling pound will impact most on those whom Mrs May defined as 'just managing'.

Mrs May has displayed her talent for doing damage in triplicate so far. The consequences are dire in almost all areas. She has got away with it by virtue of the 'political honeymoon of new PMs' but as Gordon Brown could tell her it doesn't last long. Her party are in a flagrant civil war not only over Brexit but grammar schools, disability benefits, bankers, energy policy, immigration and now Heathrow with Zac Goldsmith carrying out his threat to resign and stand as an independent.

On occasions like this, it is usually the case that the official opposition provides alternative options but in these troubled times, the Labour Party is more intent on continuing with its own internal conflict. The Lib Dems are seizing their chance to regain some credibility following their disastrous coalition years and the Greens want to collaborate with the other alleged "progressive" parties but are drawing a blank. This is surely the time for an axis of enlightened politics from the other political parties after all the Tory vote was only 24% of the registered electorate in 2015, and that was a high water-mark before the disenchantment with Cameron and the irreconcilable split amongst the MPs.

In parliament this week Mrs May was showing signs of being rattled at PM questions by Jeremy Corbyn, not something that has worried either her or David Cameron in the past. I suspect that she knows that the months and years ahead are destined to be devilishly difficult with many unpopular decisions to be taken and some votes to be lost. I hope, but with little confidence, that her pledges about 'fighting the burning injustices' and 'making Britain work for everyone' will not be abandoned as she tries to triangulate the competing pressures from Europe, her party, a slowing economy and the aspirations of those just managing. 

Tuesday 25 October 2016

Beinn na h-Uamha, Ardgour


Beinn na h-Uamha beyond Loch nan Gabhar
Monday, 24 October 2016
Ascent:        846 metres
Distance:     16 kilometres
Time:           5 hours 31 minutes

c    Beinn na h-Uamha      762m    2hrs 50mins

Breakfast at the Ariundle Centre was a bit of a luxury for us but we had time on our side today for the comparatively easy walk up Glen Gour to the rock girt summit of Beinn na h-Uamha. We parked by the old bridge at Sallachan and began the walk up the beautiful glen. The day was windless and from the good track the views were sublime towards the distant peaks. Reflections of the mountains in Loch nan Gabhar and the copper hues of the grasses made the views exquisite. Swans were cruising on the loch, a cormorant skimmed by, there was peaceful silence that allowed us to hear the birdsong in the birchwood. It is a 4 kilometre walk along the track with virtually no ascent. The river then had to be crossed but it  was in low flow and proved relatively easy, even in trail shoes we emerged with dry feet .

We had decided to climb the south east ridge, crossing a meadow of long grasses first before climbing steeply alongside a burn that cascades from the end of the ridge. It was warm work and jackets were removed as we eased upwards to the top of the burn and then negotiated our way through the rock bands that provide two intermediate tops along the ridge. There is a flatter section from where a deeply incised burn cuts down to the glen, a drop of 550 metres. We decided that this would be a better route down. Thereafter it was an enjoyable climb for the final 200 metres of ascent with the views into the Ardgour hills opening up.

We reached the summit just before 12:30pm. It was a perfect autumn day with excellent visibility, a warm sun, no wind and vistas to dream about. Westwards we could see some of the small isles beyond Rois Bheinn but the pride of place was Sgurr Dhomhnuill, a soaring peak just 3 kilometres away but probably a 2 hour walk with all the descents and ascents along the way. To the east we could trace our route along Glen Gour and along the ridge to the summit and to the south the massive
flat summit of Garbh Bheinn looked like an anvil. As a place to eat lunch this has few peers on a day like today, we were aware of the privilege. John reflected that we had earned it from all the wet, frozen, windy days when we had no view and stopping at the summit would guarantee getting cold, wet and miserable.

We spent 40 minutes enjoying this rare spectacle before beginning the descent. To my surprise we found an easy route down the ramp at the side of the burn to the river about a mile upstream of where we had crossed on the ascent. There was a good sample of indigenous oaks and birch along the water courses and sprouting from erratic boulders. We crossed the river and found the track which was waterlogged in places but we had just 5 kilometres to cover to return to the car. As the afternoon sun began to sink, the length of our shadows and the walk seemed to extend. But this had been one of the most enjoyable outings on a hill that I had not known and will have trouble remembering by name. It means 'hill of the caves'.
.
Golden Days
Old Oak tree at the river crossing
Looking east to A' Bheinn Bhan during the initial ascent
Pottering along the ridge
Sgurr Dhomhnuill from Beinn na h-Uamha
Looking north west to Roiss Bheinn
At the summit
Looking down Glen Gour to Loch Linnhe and Glencoe
Birch on Psammite metamorphic outcrop
Loch nan Gabhar on the walk out

key-for-munro-and-corbett-postings

Monday 24 October 2016

Fuar Bheinn and Creach Bheinn, Morven


Looking up Glen Galmardale towards Creach Bheinn
Sunday, 23 October 2016

Ascent:      1563 metres
Distance:   16 kilometres
Time:         6 hours 23 minutes

g    Beinn na Cille         652m     1hr   35mins
c    Fuar Bheinn            766m      2hrs 45mins
c    Creach Bheinn        853m      3hrs 52mins
     Meall Odhar            794m      4hrs 32mins


The benign weather of the past week suggested a couple of sunny days in the west highlands. John and I agreed to make a two day trip to Morvern and Ardgour to climb the Kingairloch horseshoe with two corbetts and a graham and then to climb Beinn na h-Uamha in Ardgour. I booked the bunkhouse at Ariundle near Strontium. The Arundel Centre is run by an enthusiastic elderly woman who has created a local craft centre with workshops for wool spinning, dying and weaving. It also has a friendly restaurant serving good food with an emphasis on local produce.

We vdrove to the Coran ferry, the grey skies of central Scotland gradually giving way to bright skies we descended from Rannoch Moor and the hills of Ardgour glinted in the shafts of morning sun. It is a wonderful drive from the ferry down the single track road to Kingairloch. The famous wild goats were not at home but the views down Loch Linnhe were enough to create a mood of eager anticipation for the walk. We parked at Glengalmadale on some open land by the bridge and walked a kilometre along the road towards the headland overlooking Loch a' Choire with its fish farm. From here we began the steep ascent to the outlying Graham of Beinn na Cille. It was an uncompromising slog up steep slopes with gravity acting in harness with long grass and heathers in hindering progress. There was a cool easterly breeze but the day was becoming brighter and the views behind us over Loch Linnhe to Lismore and Loch Creran were stunning.

When we reached the summit of Beinn na Cille we had some food, it was cool in the breeze and hats and gloves were needed. We could hear the workings from the massive Glensanda quarry 3 or 4 miles to the south west hidden behind the impressive looking Beinn Mheadhoin. It made me examine the rocks beneath us, a pinkish granite that is part of the Strontian granodiorite group. There is a longish descent of over 200 metres down grassy slopes punctuated by granite boulders to a slightly boggy bealach before beginning the climb to Fuar Bheinn. It was easy going although the 320 metre climb up to Fuar Bheinn took longer than it should have as we absorbed the views and lost the impetus of the earlier climb.

There was no intention to stop again, it was quite cold so a glance at the views sufficed before we began the next descent, which involved skirting round some rock bands before reaching the next bealach and then heaving our way up another 300 metre climb to the summit of Creach Bheinn. We had spotted a lone walker ahead and it gave us some incentive to keep moving at a reasonable pace. We arrived at the summit, an untidy stone circle,  about 5 minutes behind him.

He was from Perth and an experienced walker and we began the descent together, all of us rambling on about cherished walks for the whole of the descent. We stopped at the 'camp' just below the summit, which various books describe as being a look out place for Napoleon or a place where the Ordnance Survey camp was located when surveying this rugged part of the Highlands. Shelter was provided by two robust walls at either end of a rare area of flat land and it looked as if the OS had constructed tent sites within stoned areas similar to the bivvy pods on Skye and other ridges. Despite having reached the high point of the round at Creach Bheinn we still had quite a lot of climbing to complete. It is a 100 metre climb to the next top, Maol Odhar, and then another 80 metres to Meall nan Each, a summit that is perfectly perched on the delightful ridge back to Glengalmadale.

The afternoon had mellowed, the wind had dropped and as the sun began to sink we enjoyed the spectacular coastal views down Loch Linnhe. The grass and heathers sparkled like gold in the angled sunlight and we had clear views back to the horseshoe that we had almost completed. We stopped a couple of times to peer over the edge of the ridge towards the sea in the hope of seeing some goats but they were absent friends today. We regaled each other with accounts of trips to other parts of Scotland: St Kilda, Fisherfield, Knoydart, Shetland, Foinaven and all the other memorable places that have 'floated our boats' as we criss-crossed the Scottish Highlands and Islands.

The final descent to the car park at Glengalmadale was unrelentingly steep and laced with drainage channels that provided me with a couple of unintended somersaults. We were down by 6pm and after saying farewell to our friend, we drove round to Strontian in the fading light. We had booked in at the Ariundle bunkhouse, a recent find that serves good food and is well located for the exploration of the remote rough terrain of Ardgour, Morvern and Sunart.

Ascent of Beinn na Cille looking over Loch Linnhe
Fuar Bheinn and Creach Bheinn from Beinn na Cille
On Fuar Bheinn
Looking south down Loch Linnhe from Creach Bheinn
The OS camp below Creach Bheinn summit
Leaving the summit - Garbh Bheinn prominent in distance
Loch Linnhe and mainland from Meall nan Each 
 Descending the Druim na Maodalaich ridge - sheer bliss
Creach Bheinn from the south ridge
Almost down to Glengalmadale

Fuar Bheinn and Creach Bheinn from Druim na Maodalaich

Thursday 20 October 2016

Shalloch on Minnoch and Merrick

Start of the walk looking to Kirriereoch Hill and Merrick (in cloud)
Wednesday, 19 October 2016
Ascent:       1189 metres
Distance:    22 kilometres
Time;          6 hours 25 minutes

c   Shalloch on Minnoch     775m    1hr  56mins
d   Tarfessock                     697m    2hrs 27mins
d   Kirriereoch Hill             786m     3hrs 25mins
c   Merrick                         843m     4hrs   5mins

c = corbett, d= donald

The Met Office forecast for individual hills has proved itself time and again this year. I had hoped to go to Glencoe but there was a hill mist forecast. I searched around and discovered the best forecast to be in Galloway so decided to climb Shalloch on Minnoch, a shy hill north of Glentrool. If I was feeling up to it I could walk to Merrick along the range of hills known as the 'Awful Hand' comprised of four hills (the knuckles) and four fingers (the west ridges). I had climbed Merrick three or four times in the past when preparing for or competing in mountain marathons, usually in atrocious weather. It would be good to climb it in more clement and relaxed conditions.

Leaving home at 8:30am I made good time through Glasgow and Ayrshire to Galloway and parked at Kirriereoch by 11am. The bigger hills were still capped in the cloud but the blue skies of Ayrshire were spreading south. The walk from Kirriereoch was along the good forestry tracks penetrating into the depths of the conifer plantations that have a forbidding stranglehold on the beautiful Galloway landscapes. I headed up the Pillow burn until I reached a clearing in the forest with a faint path that gave me access to the open hillside of Tarfessock. A 250-metre climb brought me to the ridgeline and I made a rising traverse through the long grass towards the Nick of Carclach. From here it is a sharp 120-metre climb to the summit of Shalloch on Minnoch. The summit is a barely visible pile of stones 300 metres east of the far more obvious and well-positioned trig point and shelter. I headed here for some lunch and to enjoy the views out to sea. Ailsa Craig was an obvious focus behind an assembly of wind turbines that are so ubiquitous in this part of the world.

Just before I left I was joined by an elderly couple from Kilmarnock who had recently taken up hill walking and were clearly impressed by the wild beauty and solitude; so much so that they displayed all the innocence and exuberance of youth. I returned to the Nick of Carclach and made the easy ascent to Tarfessock. The views across to Corserine and the Rhinns of Kells recalled a glorious morning that I had spent on these hills early this summer. To the north, Loch Doon and the smaller Lochs glistened in the afternoon sunshine. The walk across from Tarfessock to Kirriereoch Hill is a fine undulating and twisting ridge interspersed with several tiny lochans of clear water. The climb up to Kirriereoch Hill is less enticing - a steep climb up scree and mosses on the north face of the hill. The summit is a grand rounded dome with a wall crossing it and several possible high points. I found a boulder to rest myself and finish my food whilst looking across to Merrick and the ridge that leads to it and goes under the splendid name of Little Spear. The descent and climb were quicker than anticipated and as I arrived at the summit of Merrick the sun was eclipsed in dark clouds with shafts of sunlight creating some wonderful views.

I started the descent enjoying the gentle slopes heading west to Ailsa Craig but lower down the ground conditions became tougher with no discernible path. I skirted to the north of the main ridge that leads up to Kirriemore Hill, a mere 40 metres of climbing to reach its summit. It was a grave mistake, the ground was waterlogged and feathered in long grasses. I headed for the fence at the edge of the conifer plantation ahead hoping that I could find a way to the forestry track. Alas, the trees had been felled and the ground was an impossible barrier of old tree roots, dead branches, and tussocks of grass perched on a bog with remnants of old wire fencing. I headed down to the burn in the hope of finding easier ground but even there it took over 30 minutes to cover a kilometre along the boggy banks of the Kirshinnock burn. It was hemmed in by a fence and the route involved fighting through more bogs, trees, boulders and mantraps. The relief when I reached the forestry track was palpable and the remaining 3 kilometres walkout was one of pure luxury.

I had forgotten how unforgiving the ground conditions are in this part of the world. The slopes to the west of the Awful Hand have been ravaged by man with distressed plantations, abandoned grazings and fences and consequent bogs. The hills themselves are fine once you reach them but access to and from them is an exercise in purgatory. I was back at Kirriereoch just before 6pm and after a quick change managed to drive over the unclassified single-track road to Crosshill before nightfall. The journey home took two and a half hours, no longer than to the corbetts that I had left to climb near Fort William. Despite the punishing descent, the outing in the Galloway hills had been an enjoyable walk on hills that are remote and neglected compared to many parts of the Scottish Highlands.

Kirriereoch Hill and Merrick from Kirriereoch Loch
Descending Shalloch towards Tarfessock and Kirriereoch
Loch Macaterick and Loch Doon
Lochan between Tarfessock and Kirriereoch Hill

Little Spear and Merrick from Kirriereoch
Loch Enoch below Merrick
Summit of Merrick looking east
Little Spear and Merrick
Kirreoch Hill from the descent of Merrick
Looking up the Kirshinnock burn to Merrick


Tuesday 4 October 2016

Autumn Days

Autumn in Stereo

It is that time of the year again when morning mists and falling leaves make running so perfect. No humid heat to fuel perspiration nor the clammy cold of winter. Still in shorts but with gloves and a hat to fend off the morning chill. Yesterday I ran around the forest and was regaled by mirror images of the trees in the flat calm of the loch. Images that looked better than the real thing. Today I went out again with the camera to see if I could capture the subdued beauty of autumn. I had Aillen with me as a pacemaker on a bike, checking to see if my eulogies of yesterday were true.

The mists were still hovering over the loch, the leaves were turning, a red squirrel scooted across my path, and the river was back to normal flow after the rains of last week. I was running easily, seizing the chance to escape the bike on all the uphill sections and for the most part, keeping up on the flats. The end of summer always conjures a melancholy about the way that time and years ebb away. It reminds me of Who Knows Where the Time Goes by Sandy Denny, a favourite track that becomes more poignant with each passing year after retirement when you are able to observe the passing of time uncorked from the imagined urgency of the world of work.

I ran for over an hour and covered about 8 miles, my appetite for breakfast had been triggered and the feeling of achievement was real. A good foundation for all the other tasks that I had set myself from chopping wood, and cutting lawns to clearing mail.

Mountain ash

Bracken on the cusp of autumn

The mirror image is better

Reflections of a lochan

Keep up pacemaker

Placid autumn on Lochan Spling

Monday 3 October 2016

Sgor na-h Ulaidh


Summit of Sgor na h-Ulaidh
Saturday 1 October 2016

Ascent:        1075 metres   
Distance:     13 kilometres
Time:            5 hours 11 minutes

Sgor na h-Ulaidh           994m      2hrs  37mins
Stob an Fhuarain           968m      3hrs  44mins

Events had conspired against hill walking in recent weeks: gale-force winds had scuppered a few days when I had arranged to go with a friend to climb the Cuillins and a couple of weeks had been spent visiting parts of England that were unfamiliar during a journey down to London. On returning home there was a week of rain and the prospect of a sunny weekend was lost because I was working on Friday and had no time to travel north to Inverness. I decided to finish my last Munro south of the Great Glen - Sgur na h-Ulaidh at the gates of Glencoe. If time permitted I would take in Stob Dubh in Glen Etive, my last Corbett in the south apart from three in the Borders.

It was a misty morning and I faffed about getting ready instead of packing the night before. Charging a phone, camera and altimeter is a chore I could do without. The visibility was less than 100 metres when I finally left home at 8:30am and it was slow progress up to Crianlarich, made slower by a couple of motorcyclists who, contrary to type on the A82, were riding well within themselves but accelerating on all the possible overtaking sections. The sun had appeared by Tyndrum and I was listening to Chicken Shack with Christine Perfect on vocals as I motored over the ever-inspiring Rannoch Moor before beginning the descent to Glencoe. Personally, I'd rather not go blind here. Iain Banks, the recently deceased writer, had released a CD of his favourite tracks and he recommended the Waterboys 'Don't Bang the Drum' as the perfect track for driving over Rannoch Moor. The lyrics fit the occasion perfectly as Buchaille Etive Mor hoves into view.

"Well here we are in a special place
What are you gonna do here?"

I was undecided whether to stop to garner yet another photo of this special place or to charge on. Buchaille Etive Mor was shrouded in a circle of cloud at the lower levels but a helicopter was circling the summit against the clear azure skies. My decision was overtaken by the appearance in the rear mirror of a posse of Aston Martin DB9 coupes. There were a dozen of them travelling at the speed of sound, or so it seemed as they flew past, engines screaming at what must have been 100mph. I was experiencing what it must be like at Le Mans. Should I be angry at the sheer waste of fuel, the conspicuous consumption of these ageing playboys, their vainglorious contempt for other road users; or should I enjoy the cavalcade of raw power and beautiful machinery? My instincts told me to just enjoy the spectacle.

Ten miles later they were still visible ahead as they were caught between the heavy commercial traffic and gangs of motorcyclists coming the other way. I parked at the foot of Glencoe and started to walk about half an hour later than I had intended. Sgor na h-Ulaidh is hidden from the road and the walk-in involves a mile to some houses that have to be avoided by a circuitous path that was oozing mud after the recent rains. A track continues to a locked gate and beyond a narrow path follows the Allt na Muidhe up the glen passing Meall Mor and then the Corbett, Meall Lighiche (hill of the Doctor). Beyond here it is possible to climb up 500 metres of grassy slopes to the ridge leading to Stob an Fhuarain and then on to Sgor na h-Ulaidh. I could see three walkers plodding up but decided to continue to the head of the glen where there is a bealach at 530 metres between Meall Lighiche and Sgur na h-Ulaidh. I had descended down the steep path from the summit to here on a previous visit and thought it might provide a better way up.

Perhaps it is, but not the way I did it. I followed the old fence posts until reaching the crags above and lost the path so I decided to take a rake to the left. I thought it would be quicker than the longer route to the right but I found myself negotiating slabs of wet rock amply greased with mosses and teaming with water. I had to attempt several routes before finally managing to reach the top of the crags. My hands were freezing from pulling up wet slippy steep rocks and I was exhausted by the dangerous exposure on the rock face as much as the climb. I continued at a gentler pace to the summit where I was surprised to arrive before others who had climbed to the ridge leading to Stob an Fhuarain.and then the summit

It was almost 1pm so I settled down to some lunch before others arrived. A couple from Aviemore was next up and we chatted for half an hour or so having discovered common acquaintances, my niece Alison, and experiences on different hills. A mountain leader emerged on his day off and he joined the happy band. When I related that I had bought a new Goretex jacket in January and never had to use it despite spending 26 days on the Scottish hills, he retorted that as a way of keeping the rain at bay this seemed like a pretty good investment.

The day had never become totally clear and now the clouds began to hide the sun and the skies turned grey. I descended over the outlying top meeting two more groups of three walkers on my descent. Bidean nam Bian was drifting in and out of cloud so I decided to drop down to the glen. It was easy going down the grassy slopes and I reached the glen just behind the mountain leader who had descended by my ascent route but had kept to the path and not deviated onto the crags. We walked out the last three kilometres together. He had been a civil engineer but retired early so he could pursue his hobby of mountaineering as a job. He seemed very content, spending time in the Lakes, Snowdonia and the Alps as well. He enjoyed guiding in Scotland the most but found the midges and weather too much in July and August. It was almost 4pm when we reached the cars after a mainly easy day on the hill. I was an hour too late to attempt Beinn Dubh so I was happy to arrive home early for once.

Aston Martin DB9

Aonach Eagach 

Descending to the Gleann leac an Muidhe

Loch Etive between Beinn Starav and Beinn Trilleachan

Bidean nam Bian

Looking west over Loch Linnhe to Mull

Beinn Beithir

Looking up Gleann leac na Muidhe to Sgor na h-Ulaidh